- #Iver johnson top break firing pin how to#
- #Iver johnson top break firing pin plus#
- #Iver johnson top break firing pin free#
The chamber/cartridge/bolt seating looked good to me, but again I'm not going to pretend to know anything about the adjustments and specifications of this rifle. I did my best to only remove enough of the metal to get a flat surface. I deburred the barrel where pin had made an indention and then buffed it to a smooth finish. I also polished the front of the firing pin just above the smaller section that strikes the rim of the cartridge. I did not see any obstructions, but I did smooth out any rough edges from the stamping process.
#Iver johnson top break firing pin free#
Seeing that firing pin was only held in place by one pin, I removed the firing pin and checked that it was smooth and had free travel. I rounded up all the advice and did my best to check each one and check/adjust/fix. Thank you for your help and do please correct my naming of the parts so I can learn a few thing along the way. Is the amount the pin moves forward by the hammer adjustable? Should I replace the spring that loads the hammer before I do anything? If so, where do I get one? It's not the solid sharp click I'm used to. The sound of the hammer hitting the pin sound a little soft to me but I don't have a reference to compare it to. The striker/firing pin does move back and forth in the housing (again not sure what it is called exactly) and hammer moves freely.
#Iver johnson top break firing pin plus#
On the plus side, the gun is now very clean.
The indentation seems too weak compared to the 510. I took another spent cartridge and did the same indentation test and the results were the same. If someone could point me to an article or how-to it would be much appreciated.
#Iver johnson top break firing pin how to#
It took a long time to get it back together because I could not figure out how to get the hammer, slide, and everything to line up. Thinking that something was slowing or blocking the striker/pin (I don't know what it is called exactly) I stripped the gun down as far as I would dare and cleaned the parts with solvent (Hoppes) and removed any dried grease or debris. The edges of the mark do seem to be sharp. I did notice that indentation mark of the Iver was not as deep and didn't bulge the rim like the working 510. I've attached a pic of a fired round that I shot with a working 510 Targetmaster and then chambered that same spent cartridge into the Iver Johnson to make a comparison of the two indentations. The problem is that about 1 in 10 cartridges misfires. I used it a few times plinking with my Dad and it was stored away until now. I have an Iver Johnson 22 slide action that I purchased new around 1980ish.
My knowledge of gun repair is very, very light. This was to keep the gun from opening upon firing, according to Goforth.This is my 2nd post here so be gentle. The top break latch is designed so that the hammer has to have rebounded off of fully-down position before the latch can be depressed to open the gun. But they have some other of IJ's more modern features (like a "safety trigger", with an inner trigger set into the face of the regular trigger, working like several modern triggers like Savage 110 rifles). What do you want to know about them, specifically? They were not the very top of the line IJ designs - because they did not have the "hammer-the-hammer" safety design. Here's an advertisement, captured in Goforth's book, for Lovell's Swift hammerless revolver from 1890. Lovell Arms had a manufacturing agreement in place between 18 for IJ to make these Swift revolvers, and several hundred thousand were probably made in this time period! In 1895, Lovell was bought out by Iver Johnson's. Haven't seen one "in the wild", but the "bible" on Iver Johnson firearms made over the years, written a few years ago by William Goforth, "Iver Johnson Arms & Cycle Works Firearms" has a 4 page section on Swift revolvers.
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